Skin Routine Guide
Hey there, so you’re new to skincare and don’t know where to start? Below we’ve laid out the basic structure from which we build a skincare routine.
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Steps 1 to 4 are core steps for those who are completely new to skincare.
As you become increasingly comfortable with understanding the reasoning behind each step of your skincare routine, you may start to add additional steps to your routine, each with their own specific purpose.
Before you start it may be worth understanding what type of skin you have.
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Step 1 – Oil Cleanse
Oil Cleansers employ the chemical principle of “like dissolves like” and are ideal for removing excess sebum produced by the skin, and any oil-based residue from pollutants, sunscreens, and makeup at the end of each day.
This is usually followed by a water cleanser as part of double cleansing routine. The concept of double cleansing is to remove the accumulation of daily junk from environmental pollutants, sweat, excess oil secretions, skin debris, and the residual layers of sunscreen and makeup left on your skin as effectively but also as gently as possible. Harsh soaps and cleansers can be too strong and strip away the natural oil barrier that forms part of your natural skin barrier, which then leads to excess transepidermal water loss and impairment of your skin’s natural protective capabilities.
Double cleansing is generally recommended for those with combination to oily skin types. It will also work for those with dry skin as long as the oil and water cleansers are gentle and very well tolerated.
If you double cleanse in the evening it really isn't necessary to use an oil cleanser in the morning.
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Step 2 – Water Cleanse
Water cleansers follow after oil cleansers to remove any residual impurities left on your skin.
Those with dry skin may still double cleanse with gentle oil and water cleansers if well tolerated, however it may also be appropriate for those with very dry skin to skip double cleansing and only use an oil cleanser at the end of each day. You will know your cleansers are too stripping if, soon after cleansing your face, it feels like your face is being pulled back with duct tape or is cracking all over.
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Optional – Exfoliants
The purpose of exfoliating active ingredients is to effectively remove dead skin debris and excess sebum that accumulates on your skin throughout the day, so as to prevent them from clogging your pores.
Your skin is constantly in a process of simultaneous shedding and regrowth. You develop a new set of skin approximately every 27days! Exfoliants work by dissolving the natural “glue” that keeps skin debris together and help them shed off.
You will hear about all sorts of different classes of exfoliants like AHA, BHA, PHA, etc. The fundamental differences between them are their molecular size and dissolving properties. Larger water-soluble molecules like AHAs are great at removing debris on the surface of the skin, while smaller fat-soluble molecules like BHAs are better at getting into deep pores to dissolve skin and sebum in them.
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Optional – Toners
There are endless names and purposes assigned to toners online and in articles. Generally speaking, we have found most claims about toners grossly exaggerated and no, it really isn’t necessary to use toners to “re-balance the pH of your skin” because most modernised skincare products are already pH balanced. What the products are called ultimately is irrelevant, what IS relevant is what active ingredients and function they have. There are a few instances you may find "toners" beneficial including:
- Adding a layer of easily absorbable humectants and hydration to dry skin before applying treatment serums. Some toners can also help calm irritated skin.
- You have very oily skin living in tropical weather and find a good toner is all you need to keep your skin hydrated and happy throughout the day.
- To help deliver certain active ingredients to your skin, though that is not necessary if you are already using treatment serums with the same active ingredients in your routine.
- Purely because you like the sensation of applying toners and find them soothing and calming.
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Step 3 – Treatment & Repair
Treatments serums contain active ingredients which each have their own specific purpose and benefits. They are generally applied after cleansers and before emollients (what's used to seal moisture and active ingredients within the skin).
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Step 4 – Hydrate & Protect
Humectants are used to add and keep hydration within the skin, while emollients are used to seal moisture and any treatment products you have applied inside your skin and prevent transepidermal water loss.
Sun Screens are used to help keep your skin hydrated while providing your skin protection from environmental stressors it encourters throughout the day.
Please remember to always ensure you have adequate sun-protection during the day. Contrary to common myths, it is important to apply sun protection even on overcast days as UV radiation gives no regard to clouds. Unless you live in a cave, you can still encounter UV radiation on days when you are primarily indoors due to incidental UV exposure through windows, walking briefly outdoors, or from reflected UV rays which can collectively accumulate damage to your skin.
